The Stag & First in Last Out - Mummified cats & the finest Thali this side of the Himalayas…Two sublime pubs in Hastings’ Old Town. East Sussex.
Great pubs are the soul of the community, their history woven into the stories and folklore of a place. In many instances their doors have been open to successive generations of local families and traditions echo across the room from centuries ago. Like many of the public houses in Hastings’ Old town those ghosts still prop up the bar at The Stag and Filo (as it’s affectionately known) creating an ambience that cannot be faked, only time can create this heritage so particular to great Inns and taverns.
The Stag on All Saints street may be one of the best pubs we’ve ever been to. Set high above the narrow street its position immediately installs a feeling of safety, and with that comes a sense of comfort. On entering one is further drawn in by the low beamed ceiling and cosy seating. A display case houses two mummified cats, found in the chimney breast, which now ward off evil spirts. There is something of the Wicker man about the place, a local folk trio quietly strum and jangle in practice at an adjacent table. This is by no means a bad thing, we are clearly in a place that has succeeded in protecting its authentic identity over time. Where locals and visitors alike can step out of the 21st century into a realm which transcends time.
The Stag Inn, All Saints Street. Hastings, East Sussex.
Gratefully the food is years ahead of the often drab fayre Mrs WH and I are usually served. The menu is sympathetic to the region and offers inventive and heartwarming pub grub for today’s discerning diner. If I could this once offer the world’s finest beer accompaniment it would be the Stag’s Kedgeree scotch egg with curry sauce! We do not need or dare tell you about the rest of the menu, instead I pose the idea that if the walls were painted in Farrow & Ball ‘badgers quim’, the table cloths starched egyptian cotton, and the glasses as thin and shiny as a slug trail on the kitchen floor - we’d be calling this a Gastro Pub. But, thankfully this is a boozer, with its own identity, and is very comfortable with it.
The staff seem proud to work here, helpful and happy, and the drinks on offer (although tied to Shepherd Neame) are in good health and of broad enough variety. The Stag has a beautiful terraced garden which must be stunning in the summer. We will absolutely return, ideally in a warm month and on one of the numerous nights a folk band is playing live.
HOLD PRESS! First in last out may be one of the finest pubs we’ve ever been in! No less than 200m across the road from the Stag is the Filo (Fie-Low), an old C.19 beer house which has since the 1980’s brewed its own ales including the premium ale - FILO gold, MUST go on your list. As a Free House the drinks extend to some excellent euro-lagers and due to the excellent restaurant, the wines bat way above average. The pub is split into a really cosy boothed bar area with possibly one of the best pub fires in the land - a large raised grate sits in the middle of the room radiating warmth 360 degrees - everyone gets the seat by the fire. We can’t do it justice. Just accept it is perfect. The Booths create intimate places to snuggle away in, to play games or eat the A+ food…Dogs are calm in this pub as are the punters, this is a good place to be.
The menu on a regular day looks like top notch modern pub grub, again like The Stag, gastro quality without the grey paint, pound signs & crystal glass. We happened to be there on a Thursday night. Thursday night is Thali night. Thali means ‘plate’ FILO’s thali (£15) is an exquisite Indian feast, starters of pakora, samosa and aloo complement a variety of regional (made from scratch) curry’s, so authentic, fresh & zingy you’ll believe you are in Goa. They also claim to grind their own garam masala. Accompanied with home made pickles, chutneys, rice and breads, First in last out’s thali is (and this may ruffle a few feathers) the best Indian food I’ve had in the UK…Washed down with a cold Dortmunder Union lager or zesty white Italian and this is near the perfect night out…then there are the staff…
It is seldom that every member of the team(s) we encounter are so well equipped in the hospitality stakes, each member of staff, bar, kitchen, front of house is genuine, caring, knowledgeable and welcoming. It’s a really special feeling at FILO.
It doesn’t get much cosier than First in Last Out. Photo: Mr & Mrs W.H